Riserva Ducale Oro Omnes Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, Ruffino 2022 - 150cl

Only 2,200 of these magnums were made. Omnes is the second chapter of ORObyRUFFINO, a project that pairs one vintage of Riserva Ducale Oro each year with a work of design. This edition is by Millim Studio, the Rome practice of Chiara Pellicano and Edoardo Giammarioli. Its satin-finished brass forms wrap around the bottle like jewellery. Omnes is Latin for "everyone", and the piece is about the table and the people around it.

The wine is the real thing: Ruffino's flagship Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, a cuvée first made in 1947, decades before the Gran Selezione category was created. It is 80% Sangiovese with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Colorino, all from the Gretole and Santedame estates in Castellina in Chianti. The Sangiovese ages in large Slavonian oak casks, the rest in barriques and tonneaux, followed by concrete and bottle. Thirty months in all.

2022 was one of Tuscany's hottest years. After a mild winter and a dry spring came a scorching summer. Rain arrived late, and big swings between day and night temperatures rescued freshness. The wine is ripe and generous at 15%, but still poised: cherry, plum and violet, then eucalyptus, black pepper and coffee bean, with soft, ripe tannins and lively acidity.

Magnums age more slowly and more gracefully than bottles. Keep this one for a decade-marking occasion, or simply keep it. The brass makes it as much an object as a wine.

How to Serve

Serve at 18°C. Stand it upright the day before, then decant for two hours and pour into large bowls.

Where to Drink It

The River Cafe, where a magnum of Tuscan red is a normal request. Wiltons on Jermyn Street, for ceremony. Bentley's, upstairs, for a long lunch.

Food Pairings

A whole roast porchetta with fennel and garlic, carved at the table for a crowd. It suits a bottle this size.