Pinot Nero, Castello della Sala 2022 75cl
Pinot Noir from central Italy is a rare thing, and Castello della Sala has been quietly perfecting it for decades. The 2022 Pinot Nero shows what Umbria's cooler hillside sites can do with Burgundy's most demanding grape.
The Antinori family planted Pinot Nero at their Orvieto estate long before it was fashionable, using cuttings with genuine Burgundian roots. Grown on the higher, cooler slopes of Castello della Sala and aged in French oak, this is a serious attempt at the variety rather than a curiosity. The 2022 vintage was warm across Italy, giving ripe fruit while the altitude here preserved freshness.
In the glass it is pale and translucent, with aromas of red cherry, wild strawberry and a faint earthy undergrowth. The palate is silky and mid-weight, with fine tannins and a bright cherry-driven acidity that keeps everything lifted. There is a savoury, almost mushroomy note on the finish that speaks to real Pinot character rather than simple fruit.
This is a wine for the table rather than long cellaring, drinking well now and over the next four or five years. At around £70 it sits at the premium end for Italian Pinot, but the quality and rarity justify the ask for anyone curious about what the grape can do outside France.
How to Serve
Serve lightly cool at 14-16°C in a large-bowled glass. A short decant of thirty minutes helps it open.
Where to Drink It
Noble Rot in Lamb's Conduit Street, for a wine crowd that appreciates the oddity. Padella in Borough, for pasta that suits it. Bocca di Lupo in Soho, for regional Italian plates.
Food Pairings
Duck breast with cherry, or a plate of mushroom risotto to echo its earthy side.
