Oremus, Aszu 5 Puttonyos, Tokaj 2018 - 50cl

Tokaji was the wine of emperors and tsars long before anyone had heard of Sauternes, and Oremus is one of the names that keeps that reputation intact. Owned by the Vega Sicilia family of Spain, this Hungarian estate makes Aszú the old way: botrytis-shrivelled berries picked one at a time and folded into a base wine, then aged patiently in barrel.

The 5 Puttonyos is the classic expression — the sweetness measure that sits right in the heart of the range, sweet but never overwhelming. This fruit comes from the volcanic slopes of Tokaj-Hegyalja in north-eastern Hungary, a blend led by Furmint with Harslevelű, Zeta and a little Sárgamuskotály. It spends two to three years in small oak barrels, then another year in bottle before release.

2018 was a warm, generous vintage, and it shows in the glass. The colour is a delicate gold, the nose all lime flowers and apricot blossom — floral and fresh, with the botrytis playing a supporting role rather than dominating. The palate is where it sings: lush and sweet with concentrated lime marmalade and stone fruit, then that famous Tokaji acidity arrives and scrubs everything clean. The finish is long, harmonious and mouthwatering. Sweet wine that leaves you wanting the next sip is rare. This does it.

Keep a bottle for the moment a dinner deserves a proper ending.

How to Serve

Serve chilled, around 8–10°C, in a small white wine glass so the aromatics have room. A well-made Tokaji like this will keep for a week or more in the fridge once opened — the sugar and acidity protect it.

Where to Drink It

The Wolseley, with something almondy from the pudding trolley. J Sheekey, as a surprising close to a seafood dinner. Noble Rot, whose team will talk Tokaji with you all night.

Food Pairings

Reach for nutty desserts — pecan pie, almond tart, or a bit of brittle. It's also a classic with foie gras, and holds its own against a strong blue cheese like Roquefort.