Mas Deu Priorat, Scala Dei 2018 75cl

Mas Deu is Scala Dei's expression of old-vine Garnacha grown high in the Montsant mountains, and it makes a compelling case for Priorat done with restraint rather than sheer muscle. This is 100% Garnacha from a single altitude site, a wine of concentration and freshness in equal measure.

Scala Dei is the founding estate of Priorat, its history tied to the Carthusian monks who first planted these slopes. The vines for Mas Deu sit at high elevation on poor soils, where cool nights preserve acidity and slow ripening builds depth. The 2018 vintage was cooler and more classic, favouring perfume and balance.

Expect a deep ruby colour and a nose of blackberry, dried cherry, wild thyme, liquorice and a mineral, almost graphite streak from the schist soils. The palate is full-bodied but poised, with ripe dark fruit, firm but polished tannins and a savoury, herb-scented finish that lingers. There is warmth here, but the altitude keeps it fresh rather than jammy.

At around £80 this is serious Priorat that rewards a decanter now and will develop further over five to eight years.

How to Serve

Serve at 16-18C in a large bowled glass. Decant an hour ahead, or two if drinking young.

Where to Drink It

Sabor in Mayfair for grilled meats. Barrafina in Soho for bold Spanish plates. Lurra in Marylebone for txuleta steak.

Food Pairings

Slow-roast lamb shoulder, or grilled ribeye with romesco.