Le Clos du Caillou 2022 - 75cl

Le Clos du Caillou has one of the great origin stories in the southern Rhône. When the Châteauneuf-du-Pape boundary was drawn in the 1930s, the family who owned this estate refused to let the surveyors onto their walled woodland — so the parcels inside were left unclassified, an island of sandy soil surrounded by the appellation. The estate has been organic since 2010, and today it makes some of the most sought-after Grenache in the region.

This is a Châteauneuf-du-Pape from that estate — a Grenache-led blend fleshed out with Syrah and Mourvèdre, grown on the sandy terroir that gives the wines their perfume and lift rather than sheer weight. It is raised in concrete and old foudre, so there is no new-oak polish getting in the way of the fruit.

2022 was scorching — the hottest, driest year here in decades — yet Grenache thrived and the wines came in fresher than the heat would suggest. Expect blackberry and dark cherry, garrigue herbs, cracked pepper and a note of black tea. The palate is juicy and supple, elegant rather than heavy, with fine tannins and a long, gently spiced finish. It is a wine that flatters early but has the frame to keep.

Pour it for a Sunday roast or a slow dinner — generous, food-friendly Châteauneuf without the bruising alcohol.

How to Serve

Serve at 16-17°C. Decant 45 minutes to an hour to let the garrigue and fruit open. A large Bordeaux or Rhône glass suits it. Drinking well now and over the next several years.

Where to Drink It

The Wolseley, for an easy grand lunch. Scott's in Mayfair, if there is game or lamb on the menu. Noble Rot, for a Rhône list worth reading.

Food Pairings

Roast lamb studded with rosemary and garlic is the natural partner. Or a plate of slow-cooked daube, where the garrigue notes come alive.