Garzaia Bianco Toscana IGT, Ruffino 2025 75cl

Fiano belongs to Campania, and Viognier belongs to the northern Rhône. Neither is what you'd expect from Bolgheri, but the white wine from Ruffino's La Garzaia estate shows why the combination works on the Tuscan coast.

The vineyard sits in Le Sondraie, at the northern tip of the Bolgheri appellation, ten metres above sea level on clay and limestone. Winemaker Olga Fusari uses 71% Fiano, a southern grape that holds onto its acidity in heat and brings salinity and structure. The other 29% is Viognier, for perfume and softness. The grapes are hand-picked, chilled and whole-bunch pressed, then fermented partly in steel and partly in 16-hectolitre ceramic amphorae. Six months on the fine lees with regular stirring gives it texture.

2025 was a demanding year. A wet spring was followed by a July and August that went past 40°C, so the Viognier came in on 19 August and the Fiano just after. Early picking kept the wine fresh. In the glass it's straw-gold with green flashes. The nose opens with white flowers, ripe peach and apricot, along with citrus peel and a herbal note. The palate is rounded and generous but finishes clean and mineral, with no flab at 13%.

It's a confident, unusual Tuscan white at a sensible price, and good company for anyone who has worked through the usual Vermentino options.

How to Serve

Serve at 8–10°C. Don't over-chill it, because the Viognier perfume needs some warmth to show. Use a white Burgundy glass.

Where to Drink It

Scott's in Mayfair, with something from the crustacea counter. J Sheekey, for the fish. Dandy on Maltby Street, for a laid-back weekend lunch.

Food Pairings

Grilled sea bream with lemon and wild fennel. The wine's salinity meets the fish, and the Viognier stands up to the char.