Clos Sauvage, Beaujolais 2023

Clos Sauvage is Sophie and David Devynck, who since 2018 have farmed a few hectares of high-altitude vines around Saint-Amour at the top of Beaujolais, working towards a self-sufficient polyculture farm. Their reds are Gamay, and they do something a little different with it — fully destemming the fruit rather than the whole-bunch carbonic route most of Beaujolais takes.

That choice shows in the glass. Where carbonic Gamay is all bubblegum and banana, this is more layered and mineral, with a spicy edge, while keeping the juicy exuberance that makes the grape so easy to love. Expect a berry-forward nose, bright acidity and fine, gentle tannins, with a herbal note giving way to sweet berry fruit on the finish. It's a thoughtful take on Beaujolais from a young natural producer worth following.

Drink it young and fresh, with a light chill, over the next couple of years.

How to Serve

Serve cool, 13–14°C. A light chill is essential for Gamay — it sharpens the fruit and freshness. A standard glass; no decant.

Where to Drink It

Dandy on Maltby Street for a natural-leaning, low-lit evening. Or Sager + Wilde on Hackney Road, which pours plenty in this spirit.

Food Pairings

A charcuterie board, or roast chicken eaten cold the next day. Grilled sardines, too, if the sun's out.