Domaine Thierry Germain (Roches Neuves), Saumur-Champigny, Terres Chaudes 2021 - 75cl
Terres Chaudes translates as “warm earth”, and the name is the whole idea — a south-facing clay-limestone slope in Saumur-Champigny that ripens Cabernet Franc more fully than most of the Loire manages. Thierry Germain, who took over Domaine des Roches Neuves and farms it biodynamically, treats this as one of his signature reds.
Cabernet Franc in the Loire can be lean and green in the wrong hands. Germain's is nothing of the sort. The 2021 gives you cassis and dark cherry, a lift of violet and crushed raspberry, then the graphite-and-pencil-shaving character that good Chinon and Saumur share. There's a peppery edge too, and a savoury undertow that keeps it from being simply fruity. The tannins are fine-grained and the acidity bright, so despite the ripeness it stays fresh and drinkable rather than heavy.
This is a red for the table more than the armchair. It shines with food, and it has the structure to age five to eight years if you'd rather wait — though it's already open and generous now.
How to Serve
Serve at 15–16°C, a touch below room temperature; Loire reds hate being served warm. A Burgundy-style glass suits its perfume. Decant for 30 minutes to let the fruit unfurl.
Where to Drink It
Noble Rot for its Loire-leaning list. Brat in Shoreditch, where wood-fired cooking meets this savoury red. Planque for something a little more adventurous.
Food Pairings
Roast duck or a rare‑cooked hanger steak. It's also lovely with a plate of charcuterie and a wedge of hard cheese.
