Cometa, Planeta 2024 75cl
Cometa is Planeta's answer to a question few were asking in the 1990s: what could Fiano, a southern Italian white grape more associated with the mainland, do on the lime-chalk soils of western Sicily? The answer, it turns out, is something rather lovely.
The grapes grow at Menfi on the south-west coast, where those chalky soils sharpen the variety's natural aromatics and hold its freshness. This is 100% Fiano at around 13.5%, made in a bright, precise style that shows off the grape's herbal, floral character rather than burying it under oak.
The nose opens with chamomile and mandarin, exotic fruit, lychee and mango, with a herbal lift of thyme, oregano and broom flower. The palate is mineral and savoury, threaded with ripe peach, quince and a fresh acidic tension, and it finishes silky and long on apricot, almond flower and basil. There's real detail here for the money.
At around £30 this is one of the more interesting Sicilian whites you'll find, a wine with genuine personality rather than easy fruit. It's drinking beautifully now, though good Fiano can surprise you with a few years in bottle, gaining a waxy, honeyed depth.
How to Serve
Serve at 8-10°C in a standard white glass; too cold and you'll mute those aromatics. No decanting needed, but give it a few minutes to open.
Where to Drink It
Noble Rot for a curious, characterful list. Planque in Haggerston for low-key dining. The River Cafe with a plate of seafood pasta.
Food Pairings
Beautiful with grilled prawns or a lemony seafood linguine. It also has the aromatics to handle lightly spiced dishes and roast chicken.
