BLANKbottle, Little William, Western Cape 2022 - 75cl

Pieter Walser makes wine the way most people wish they could: on instinct, with a story behind every bottle and rarely the same wine twice. His BLANKbottle project in the Western Cape has a cult following for exactly that reason. Little William is his lighter, more delicate take on Syrah, and it is a charmer.

The fruit comes from ungrafted Shiraz vines grown high up in an unusual, cool corner of the Cape. Altitude is the secret here; it keeps things fresh and fine, and Walser is quite open that he is chasing something closer to Pinot Noir than to a big, brawny Syrah. He picks early, cools the grapes overnight, ferments them as whole bunches on wild yeast, leaves them on the skins as long as he dares, then ages the wine in a mix of old and a little new oak for a year.

The result is pale and bright, only 13% alcohol, with mouth-watering acidity and a real sense of place. Red fruit leads, raspberry and cherry, lifted and fresh, with a peppery whisper from the whole-bunch fermentation and a silky, refreshing finish. It is light on its feet but not thin, the kind of red you can happily drink through a whole evening. Serve it slightly cool. At this price it is a lot of interest and personality for the money, and a brilliant introduction to one of South Africa's most original winemakers.

How to Serve

Serve cool, around 14-15°C, even lightly chilled in warm weather. No need to decant. A medium red glass works well. Drink now and over the next two or three years.

Where to Drink It

Dandy on Maltby Street, tailor-made for bright, chillable reds. The Wolseley for an easy lunch. Planque in Haggerston for its love of offbeat, characterful bottles.

Food Pairings

Lovely with roast chicken or a plate of grilled vegetables and lentils, its freshness keeping everything lively. Lightly chilled, it also pairs happily with charcuterie or a mushroom tart.