This is Grüner at its most easy-going and elegant — the kind of bottle that turns up to a long lunch and quietly steals the show. Bernhard Ott, Wagram’s biodynamic maestro, makes Grüner with both precision and charm, and Am Berg is his signature welcome mat. Pale gold in the glass, it offers citrus zest, yellow apple and a whisper of meadow herbs. The palate is bright, pepper-flecked and saline, with a clean mineral line that keeps it lively and fresh. It’s crisp, modern, and far too easy to pour a second glass. Built for oysters, asparagus, sushi or simply the sun-drenched hours that stretch longer than you expected. This is Grüner as it should be: unfussy, uplifting, and endlessly drinkable.