amie red (carignan) 75cl

Carignan spent decades as the grape nobody admitted to growing — planted everywhere across the Mediterranean for volume, blamed for thin, harsh wine, then pulled up in enormous quantities. What survived tended to be the old vines on the poorer sites, which is precisely where Carignan turns good. That rehabilitation is why bottles like this exist.

The colour is a bright, clear ruby rather than anything inky. The nose leads with dried cranberry and raspberry, and then something more interesting arrives underneath — tobacco leaf and a dusting of baking spice, cinnamon and clove. On the palate it is fresh and vibrant, the fruit still red rather than jammy, with tannins that are smooth and fully ripe. There is a savoury edge to the finish that keeps it from being simply fruity.

This is an everyday red with more character than the price suggests. It is not built for the cellar and it does not want to be analysed. Open it, pour it slightly cool, and it will get on with the job.

How to Serve

Serve it cool for a red — 14-15°C, so twenty minutes in the fridge if the room is warm. Carignan turns heavy when it gets too warm. No decanting needed. Drink within two to three years.

Where to Drink It

Planque in Haggerston, which likes an honest bottle. Dandy on Maltby Street. Brat in Shoreditch, where anything off the fire will suit it.

Food Pairings

Sausages, plain and grilled hard. It also takes a tomato-heavy pasta very well, and a slab of cheddar. The spice note in the wine loves anything with a bit of char on it.