For years, Sicily was where cheap bulk wine came from. Now it is where the wine world's most curious drinkers are looking, and the reason is a volcano.

The largest island in the Mediterranean has quietly become one of Italy's most thrilling wine regions, trading volume for character and cliche for genuine sense of place.

Mount Etna, the Game-Changer

The story starts on the slopes of Europe's most active volcano. Up on Etna's black volcanic soils, at surprising altitude, the Nerello Mascalese grape makes pale, perfumed, mineral reds that have drawn comparisons to Burgundy. Ash, red cherry and wild herbs, with a smoky lift you will not find anywhere else.

The Island's Own Grapes

Beyond Etna, Sicily has a cellar full of characters: rich, dark Nero d'Avola; light, joyful Frappato; and crisp, saline whites from Grillo and Carricante. Down in Faro, near Messina, elegant Nerello blends are making a quiet comeback. Very little of it tastes like anywhere else.

Sun, Sea and the Table

This is food-loving wine through and through. The whites were born for grilled fish and seafood pasta; the reds handle caponata, aubergine and charred meat with ease. Drink Sicilian, eat Sicilian, and the whole island suddenly makes sense.