Drive south from Lyon and the Rhône does something to the light. It sharpens, then softens, then turns golden, and the wine changes with it. One valley, two completely different personalities.

The Rhône is really two regions wearing the same name. The steep, narrow north and the broad, sun-baked south share a river and almost nothing else. Learn the split and the whole place makes sense.

The North: Syrah on a Cliff Edge

Up north, around Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage and the more affordable Crozes-Hermitage, one red grape matters: Syrah. Grown on terrifyingly steep granite slopes, it makes reds of black pepper, violets, cured meat and woodsmoke. Serious, perfumed, and built to age for years.

The South: Grenache and the Art of the Blend

Head south and the valley opens out into Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Vacqueyras and the everyday pleasure of Côtes du Rhône. Here Grenache leads a warm-hearted blend, often with Syrah and Mourvèdre, all sun-baked red fruit, wild garrigue herbs and a glassful of Provençal afternoon.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the south's calling card: famously pebble-strewn vineyards, up to thirteen permitted grapes, and reds that manage to be both generous and grave. It is the bottle to reach for when you want warmth without losing depth.

How to Drink It

Northern Syrah wants slow-cooked lamb, game, anything off a charcoal grill. Southern blends are cheerfully omnivorous: sausages, stews, ratatouille, a Tuesday roast chicken. Neither needs fuss, though a decant flatters the young ones.

One river, two temperaments. Work out which end of the valley you are drinking from and the Rhône stops being confusing and starts being one of the best-value benches in France.