Greece has been making wine for four thousand years, which makes most of Europe look like a start-up. The surprise is not the history. It is how thrillingly modern the wines have become.

A new generation has taken the country's ancient, indigenous grapes and made them sing for a contemporary table. The result is one of the most exciting and best-value corners of the wine world.

Assyrtiko and the Volcano

The star is Assyrtiko, grown on the volcanic island of Santorini where vines are coiled into low baskets to survive the wind. It makes bone-dry white wine of searing, saline minerality: think lemon, sea spray and struck flint. Few whites anywhere taste so vividly of where they come from.

The Reds Worth Knowing

The reds reward the adventurous. Xinomavro, from Naoussa in the north, is so pale, perfumed and tannic that it has earned the nickname the Greek Nebbiolo. Agiorgitiko, from Nemea, is its plush, welcoming opposite, all soft red fruit. Both are seriously good, and seriously overlooked.

Unpronounceable and Utterly Worth It

Yes, the names take some getting used to. Push through it. Greek wine is built for the Mediterranean table: crisp whites with grilled fish and mezze, savoury reds with slow-roast lamb. Order the bottle you cannot pronounce, and thank yourself later.