To Kalon Reserve Fumé Blanc, Robert Mondavi Winery 2022 75cl

Robert Mondavi coined the term "Fumé Blanc" back in 1968 to reinvent oaked Sauvignon Blanc for the American palate, and this Reserve bottling from the legendary To Kalon vineyard is the fullest expression of that idea — Napa's most storied piece of dirt, given the barrel-fermented treatment it deserves.

To Kalon in Oakville is one of the great vineyards of California, and this comes specifically from its Monastery Block. The wine is 95% Sauvignon Blanc with 5% Sémillon, and the winemaking is serious: over 90% barrel-fermented in French oak, a portion new, with a small amount in concrete, then nine months on the lees to build texture and richness. This is Sauvignon Blanc treated like fine white Burgundy.

The nose is generous — fig, pear and pineapple lifted by yellow jasmine and a spicy note of oak, with a hint of honey. The palate is medium to full-bodied and round, showing peach, mango and tropical fruit against barrel spice, yet it finishes clean, crisp, long and mouth-watering. The lees work gives it weight; the acidity keeps it honest. Wine Advocate scored the 2022 a well-earned 92 points.

At around £69 this is a special-occasion white — a wine to open when you want to show someone how far Sauvignon Blanc can go. For serious drinkers, the To Kalon provenance alone justifies the price.

How to Serve

Serve at 10–13°C in a large-bowled glass; too cold and the oak and texture close up. A brief decant does no harm. Drinking well now and over the next several years.

Where to Drink It

Scott's in Mayfair for the seafood. Noble Rot for a wine that rewards attention. Wiltons on Jermyn Street for old-school fish cookery.

Food Pairings

Rich enough for roast halibut or lobster with drawn butter. It is also excellent with a creamy chicken dish, the barrel weight and acidity keeping everything in balance.