Jean-Luc & Eric Burguet, Gevrey-Chambertin, Mes Favorites Vieilles Vignes 2021 - 75cl

If Burguet has a signature bottle, this is it. Mes Favorites, 'my favourites', is the old-vine village Gevrey that made Alain Burguet's reputation, drawn from parcels of Pinot Noir averaging over sixty years old. Old vines dig deep and yield little, and the result is a village wine with the concentration and detail of something further up the ladder.

2021 was a cool, honest vintage in the Cote de Nuits, frost-reduced and low-yielding, which only adds to the concentration here. This is Gevrey in a more classical register, less about ripe fruit, more about perfume and precision. The Burguet family have farmed hard and kept yields low since Alain founded the domaine in the 1970s, and that discipline shows.

The nose leans into red fruit with anise and a liquorice edge, scented and nuanced. On the palate there's fresh acidity, ripe but present tannin, and a layered finish that keeps going. Give it a couple of years to settle if you can. It's drinking well already, but it has the structure for the next eight to ten.

How to Serve

16C in a Burgundy bowl. Worth decanting an hour ahead while it's this young; the old-vine depth needs air to unfurl properly.

Where to Drink It

• Planque, Haggerston: a cellar-driven room that takes Burgundy seriously.
• Wiltons, Jermyn Street: old-school surroundings for a wine with this pedigree.
• Brat, Shoreditch: the fire and the fresh, structured fruit play off each other.

Food Pairings

This wants game: roast pheasant, or a rare duck breast. Short of that, a mushroom and Comte tart would do it real justice.