Federico Graziani, Rosso di Mezzo, Etna Rosso 2020 - 75cl
Federico Graziani spent years as one of Italy's most decorated sommeliers before he went to make wine on a volcano — and Rosso di Mezzo is his Etna in a glass. The name is a nod to Feudo di Mezzo, the famous contrada on the northern flank of Mount Etna where he farms parcels of century-old vines. This is not Tuscany and it is not Sangiovese; it is something stranger and more thrilling.
The grape is Nerello Mascalese, the pale, high-altitude Sicilian variety that people reasonably compare to Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo, with a little Nerello Cappuccio and old field-blend vines of Alicante and Francisi alongside. The vineyards sit on black volcanic soil, and that mineral signature runs right through the wine. Fermentation is spontaneous in open vats with wild yeasts, ageing is a full 24 months in steel — no oak to mask the place — then six months settling in bottle.
In the glass it's a translucent ruby, far lighter than its intensity suggests. The nose is high-toned and savoury: redcurrant, wild blackberry, dried herbs, crushed stone and an unmistakable whiff of caper leaf and Etna scrub. The palate is elegant and mineral rather than heavy — red fruit, fine acidity, gently gripping tannins and that volcanic, ashy finish. It has silk and it has grip. A wine for people who love Burgundy but want to be surprised; open it with dinner and let it stretch out.
How to Serve
Serve at 16–18°C in a broad Burgundy bowl to gather the perfume. A short decant of 30–45 minutes helps a young Etna open; the fruit and minerality knit together with a little air. Don't over-chill — this wine lives on its aromatics.
Where to Drink It
Noble Rot, where volcanic reds are firmly in the house style. The River Cafe, alongside its Italian cooking. Bentley's, if you're pairing it with something from the sea.
Food Pairings
Grilled tuna or swordfish with capers and tomato — the Sicilian instinct is the right one. For something heartier, a mushroom risotto plays beautifully off the wine's savoury, earthy side.
