Birichino, Cinsault Bechthold Vineyard Old Vines, Lodi 2021 - 75cl
The Bechthold Vineyard was planted in 1886, which makes it the oldest Cinsault planting in the world. These head-trained, dry-farmed, organically tended vines are national treasures, and Alex Krause and John Locke of Birichino coax something genuinely lovely out of them: an old-vine Cinsault that is all charm and lift rather than weight.
Lodi has a reputation for big, sun-baked reds, but the cool delta breezes that sweep in off the Sacramento River at day's end keep these grapes fresh, holding acidity and reining in alcohol. Birichino leans into that, even bleeding off a little juice before fermentation to focus the wine while keeping it light on its feet. The result feels closer to a good cru Beaujolais or a delicate Loire red than anything you might expect from California's Central Valley.
It is pale in the glass and bright in spirit. Crunchy red fruit leads the way, cherry, pomegranate and raspberry, with a floral top note and a gentle earthy undertone. The tannins are soft, the acidity crisp and refreshing, and the finish carries on longer than the wine's featherweight frame suggests. This is a red for pleasure, best enjoyed young and even worth a light chill. Drink it over the next couple of years with easy, flavourful food.
How to Serve
Serve cool, around 14-15°C, or give it 20 minutes in the fridge on a warm day. No decanting needed. A standard red glass is fine. Drink now and over the next two to three years while it is fresh.
Where to Drink It
Noble Rot for its soft spot for pale, characterful reds. Dandy on Maltby Street, made for chilled, gluggable bottles. The Wolseley for a relaxed lunch where the wine can play the easygoing charmer.
Food Pairings
Beautiful with roast chicken or a plate of charcuterie, its brightness cutting through the fat. Lightly chilled, it is also a joy alongside grilled salmon or a herby summer salad.
