2022 Chablis 1er Cru, Montee de Tonnerre, Domaine Louis Michel

Montée de Tonnerre is the premier cru that Chablis insiders talk about in the same breath as the grand crus — it sits right alongside them on the same slope, and in the right hands it plays every bit as seriously. Louis Michel & Fils are among the best of those hands.

What sets this domaine apart is dogma, in the best sense: no oak, on anything. This 2022 is fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel, so nothing stands between you and the terroir — pure Chardonnay grown on Kimmeridgian limestone, laid bare.

The result is Chablis at full tension. Precise citrus and white orchard fruit, crushed oyster shell and wet stone, a saline thread running the length of the palate, and acidity so clean it feels sharpened. There's real depth and cut here, and a finish that goes on and on. This is a wine of nerve and clarity rather than richness — the intellectual side of white Burgundy.

At around £45 it's a proper premier cru from a benchmark producer. Drink it now with care, or give it a few years in the cellar; wines like this only get more interesting.

How to Serve

Serve at 10–12°C in a white Burgundy glass — not too cold, or you'll mask the detail. A short time in a decanter, or simply a large glass, helps a young premier cru open up.

Where to Drink It

Wiltons for turbot and old-world service. Noble Rot for a wine list that respects Chablis. Scott's for grilled Dover sole.

Food Pairings

Grilled turbot or lobster does it justice. For something simpler, scallops seared and finished with a squeeze of lemon.