Bellamy’s is such a fixture of dining in Mayfair that it seems to have been there forever: a smart, discreet room tucked away off Berkeley Square on Bruton Place, where it sits as a more respectable big brother to The Guinea Grill. It is almost shocking that the place only opened in 2004. But it wasted no time in establishing itself, with no less a VIP in attendance than Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. Bellamy’s was said to be Queen Elizabeth’s favourite restaurant. She visited more than once, in 2006 for her 80th birthday, and again in 2016 with Princess Anne and Princess Alexandra. Like all diners, they could choose from immaculate brasserie classics: Dover Sole (said to be the Queen’s favourite), eel mousse, oysters. A picture of Queen Elizabeth hangs discreetly near the entrance.

If the restaurant seems eternal, it can be difficult to imagine that its irrepressible manager, Gavin Rankin, does not actually own the place. A former manager at Annabel’s, round the corner, Rankin presides over his kingdom with patrician grace, beautifully suited and with nary a hair out of place. Royalty or raggamuffin, everyone is welcome at Bellamy’s.

What has been the highlight of your career so far?

We welcomed Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II to Bellamy’s. That was a moment of great pride for all of us here.

And what was the most difficult moment?

Closing down for Covid. We survived completely through the generosity of our customers. We did dining vouchers at a 20% discount and it carried us through the whole way, letting us pay suppliers and staff all the way through.

What meal did you dread, growing up?

Treacle pudding. I’ve got a Belgian mother, so I was used to eating other things. I used to really sweat, knowing it was going to be on the menu the next day.

What’s the weirdest food you secretly enjoy?

Whelks. They look like big snails, you twist them out and you eat them with mayonnaise. They can have a rubbery texture but I think they’re delicious.

If you had to eliminate one ingredient from the culinary world forever, which would it be?

Pine kernels. They’re splattered all over things. A complete nuisance. I can’t be bothered with them, getting stuck in your teeth.

Pair one wine with one fast food?

Dom Perignon with caviar

I’m not sure that’s a fast food…

Can you name a faster one? You just open the tin and you’re there. It is of course crucial to be a guest at those moments.

Most overrated culinary trend?

Plate sharing. It’s boring but it’s a way of jazzing up the bill too, like in a Chinese restaurant.

What’s your death-row meal?

Bacon and Eggs. Or is it Eggs and Bacon. We might delay matters while we work out which is correct.

Who would be your ideal dinner date, living or dead, and where would you take them?

Rowley Leigh. Chef of genius; gourmand; man of letters; oenophile and bon vivant who I think is still alive. (He never rings). To anywhere that will let us in.

What's the worst meal you've ever made?

I tend to consume rather than cook but probably something hastily defrosted.

Do you have any food or wine related tattoos?

None. Had a girlfriend once who had one on her bottom which said ‘Made in England’.

Recommend a restaurant that I won't have heard of?

Les Enfants Rouges. Paris. French bistro classics cooked by a Japanese chef. Brilliant little twists.

If you had to eat one cuisine for the rest of your life, what would it be?

Japanese. It’s nice clean stuff, isn’t it?

You’re known for maintaining immaculate sartorial standards. What does that add to a restaurant?

I think the food tastes better if you’re wearing a jacket. A tie makes no difference, but the jacket does.