We decided to find out in a blind tasting, so that prejudices (i.e. my natural inclination to be a little bit sick in my mouth at anything a Kardashian does) wouldn’t let me be unfair. Who knows, Kendall Jenner might turn out to be a maestra tequilera after all.

Where better to conduct the tasting than at Mezcalito Chelsea, the Sydney Street bar and restaurant that stocks over 600 agave spirits, serving them neat or in cocktails? And, for a second opinion and sense check, I enlisted the help of Mexican-born co-owner Oliver Castilla-Tristan.

On the sunny terrace, surrounded by the greenery of The Chelsea Gardener, we had eight glasses of clear liquid in front of us: six tequilas launched by famous folk, two similar spirits owned by celebrities, and one highly regarded non-celeb tequila to act as a benchmark.

One that we knew would not be in the running was the tequila most people think of when you mention celebrity agave spirits: Casamigos. Castilla-Tristan explains: “The first celebrity tequila, in the 1990s, was actually Cabo Wabo, owned by the heavy metal musician Sammy Hagar. But that didn’t have much impact outside the United States. It was when George Clooney launched Casamigos in 2013 that there was an international breakthrough — it impacted the growth of tequila worldwide. But Diageo bought it in 2017, so he no longer owns it. And it’s a different spirit today: it’s better. Bigger mouthfeel but less sweet.”

Among agave enthusiasts, even in hospitality, there is a love-hate relationship with celebrity tequilas, which at least Oliver acknowledges: “Look, originally Casamigos was not a great tequila — it was a bit watery, very sweet. But it was easy-drinking. And that’s the thing with a lot of these celebrity tequilas: they’re an entry point for a lot of people to convert from vodka or gin. And then we can guide them to find other brands they might like. These celebs — and we’ve been lucky enough to have some of the brand owners come to Mezcalito — are brand ambassadors for Mexican spirits as a whole.”

So, I asked him, if a Made In Chelsea star/ character came in and asked you for his advice on launching a new tequila brand, what would he say? “First, I would say, stay out of Jalisco! What I mean is, 95% of tequila production is in that state, and most of that concentrated in the Highlands around the town of Tequila. But there are neighbouring states — Guanahuato, Michoacan and Nayarit, plus Tamaulipas in the north by the US border — where you can produce it, and, if you did it properly, you would be contributing to the local economy, plus you’d have a point of difference.”

But what of the current crop of celebrity tequilas? Let the blind tasting begin. We have placed the samples in their final order, but saved the names till the end.

And now the reveal:

Oliver is pleased with my choice. “Of the celebrity tequilas, that would be the one I would choose... I think The Rock is going about things the right way. He has built a distillery in an ethical way, employed local people, and is taking steps to ensure the sustainability of the process, as well as producing a tequila that tastes like tequila.”